All About Mulches.

3/7/2011

Mulches,

Organic and Synthetic

The aim of this article is to clarify the meaning of the term “Mulches.” In our gardens, Mulch is a covering of the ground around single plants or an entire row of plants. Mulches, are either Organic in composition (plant material), or Synthetic, i.e., made of plastics (a.k.a. film) or consisting of fabric material. Both serve multiple purposes as, a weed inhibitor, a moisture retainer, microbe enhancer/inhibitor, and protect the prepared ground from ‘soil compaction’ due to rain. Certain organic mulches also serve as slow feeding fertilizer.

In a process call ‘over-wintering’, mulch is used to cover the entire plants, usually tubers or rootstock as a protection form the harsh winter conditions. Organic mulches are the common choice used for over-wintering, however, materials such as old floor carpet is often used. When using carpet for this purpose, it needs removed at the first signs of spring, so not to smother the fresh young growth sprouting from the tubers or rootstock.

Organic Mulches

Organic mulch consists of any plant material that is chipped, shredded, ground, or otherwise processed into small mass. Common organic materials used are grass clippings, shrub trimmings, wood chips, Straw, Peat Moss, and newspaper, whole leaf or shredded. Included also, is incomplete compost, i.e., compost that has not reached its final stage and contains a large percentage of ‘rough matter’.

Caution: fresh green organic plant material if piled or thickly layered, produces allot of heat. The high heat can kill young plants and seed starts. This is the case with grass clippings; spread out the clippings to dry for a couple days before applying to young plants or seed starts.

The resounding benefits of using organic mulches are, it breathes allowing airflow to and from the ground, it is water permeable while at the same time retaining moisture, and is self composting which applies nutrients the root systems of the plants.

The disadvantage is that it needs reapplied several times in the growing season due to its gradual decomposition. A good practice is to apply the organic mulch, and then cap it with a layer of Peat Moss or Straw. This allows the initial application of organic material to decompose while the Peat Moss or Straw, which is slow to decompose, continues providing moisture retention and weed control throughout the growing season.

Many gardeners opt to use Straw instead of Peat Moss as a cap over organic mulch. Compost may be added directly over the straw at the end of the growing season, in preparation for next years crops. With Peat Moss, its best to rake into a pile, cover and save for the following season. Peat Moss will lower the soil Ph value (more acidity) when incorporated into the soil over several seasons.

Synthetic Mulches

Synthetic Mulches consist of agricultural plastics (a.k.a. film), and fabrics. Usually sold in rolls 4ft. wide by 20ft., 50ft., 100ft., or longer, and come in various colors. The most commonly used film and fabric color is black. However, the reflective color of the film mulch can greatly affect different species groups by increasing plant yield and/or repel disease-bearing insects. This effect is due to the reflecting of a specific bandwidth of color back up into the plant. In research conducted by the USDA and universities such as Clemons University, University of New Hampshire, amongst others, has concluded some very interesting results concerning the use of certain reflective colors of film mulches. Like all mulches, these reflective color film mulches suppress weeds and retain moisture. Below are listed some of the research results as to color.

Red film mulch: Reflective Red increases yields by 12-20% of Tomatoes and Strawberries.

Green film mulch: Reflective Green, increases earlier and heavier yields by 20-40%, of cucumbers, squash, melons (all types), and pumpkins. Also, works with peppers.

Silver film mulch: Reflective Silver is in a class of it own. Reflective Silver mulch is renowned for its ability to repel harmful disease-bearing insects. It is effective on insects such as Aphids, Thrips, White Flies, and Flea Beatles. Reflective Silver mulch is as effective, as regular pesticide applications for protecting tomatoes form ‘Spotted Wilt Virus’. This makes it especially attractive for use in Organic Gardens. Many large vegetable farms use Reflective Silver Mulch on all their Brassica crops.

Brown film mulch: Brown is more efficient for warming soil then Black mulch and suppresses weeds better then Reflective Green mulch. Brown mulch is a great all purpose film mulch, and Cucumbers, Squash, Melons, and Egg Plant all benefit from its use.

One disadvantage of using film mulches, that it is best to use drip irrigation underneath the film. Drip irrigation systems can be costly and are not always practical for the common gardener. However, with a little ingenuity and the use of recycled or repurposed materials, even the nonprofessional gardener can build a drip irrigation system for little or no cost.

The other type of synthetic mulch is Landscape Fabrics. They offer the benefit of being ‘water permeable’ as well as a great weed suppresser. Landscape Fabric is usually more cost effective then film mulch. A ‘new’ product is now available, it’s a fabric ground cover made from recycled plastic bottles, and it is ‘water permeable’ and a very good weed suppresser. 

Mulches, Organic or Synthetic serve common functions, and are their use in the garden is highly recommended. The conveniences of less watering and weed control are alone worth the effort. It is evident that mulches contribute to increased harvest yields and the overall health and vigor of our gardens.

Progress Report (continued)

Friday, 4th, March ... GREAT...  The Garlics are coming up thick and strong ... varieties include my own Wild-River, Music and a  Hungarian strain. All are Hardnecks. The most of which are my Wild-River variety.

Quick Progress Report



Well, the Thai Pepper, Ghost Pepper (Bhut Jolokia), and the Irish Tomatoes starts are doing good so far. Here are some pics.



Irish Tomato



Thai Pepper (first group)



   



Ghost Pepper (Bhut Jolokia)

 














I will be posting the completed Seed list VERY soon, so check in for a look at it ....

A Tradition: Heirloom and Open-Pollinated Species

Heirloom and Open-Pollinated Seeds vs. Genetic Hybrids (F1)

And,

The Anecdotal Wisdom of Generations Past.

We live a time where hybrids (F1) and seed patents, have nearly replaced the age-old practice of Saving Seeds from heirloom and open-pollinated plant varieties. These ‘hybrids’ and associated ‘seed patents’, LIMIT (genetically and legally), your ability and right to continue growing the same plant from the seeds of successive harvests year after year. Most hybrids degrade after a few generations. Some hybrids have ‘Kill Switches’ genetically engineered into them, so that their production is greatly reduced or fail completely after a couple generations. As for the subject of Seed Patents, there is cause for litigation, on behalf of the Owner the patent, against anyone, whom, offers for sale, trade or distribution of the seeds covered by the patent without the express written consent of the owner. Furthermore, there is cause for litigation, against anyone, whom, offers for sale, trade, distribution, or planting of the ‘seeds obtained form the harvest of plants, bearing the same genetic seeds’.

The symbol ‘F1’ refers to “First Filial” or first generation offspring. F1 indicates that a seed or plant is a hybrid. The symbol ‘PVP’ refers to “Plant Variety Protected.” A seed or plant with a PVP designation denotes the seed variety has a Patent and – Unauthorized Marketing of Seeds Prohibited. Some modern open-pollinated varieties have a PVP designation. Both symbols, F1 or PVP are, in most cases, printed on the seed pack and always included next to the name of the variety in most reputable seed catalogs.

Although, it is true that cross-breading and genetic manipulation has yielded many new and beneficial plant varieties, albeit very few of which are engineered to be Open-Pollinated. If there is a specific hybrid variety, that you want to grow and, you are not interested in keeping seeds, then go ahead and plant them.

A large percentage of gardeners are using hybrids exclusively, thus making them hopelessly reliant on the companies that create and produce the genetic hybrids. It also makes Seed Saving a futile endeavor. If the numbers of people using Open-Pollinated and Heirloom seeds dwindles, these seed varieties are in danger of being lost.

There are several organizations, whose efforts are making great head way in sustaining and expanding the proliferation of Heirloom Seeds. The leading organization is the Seed Savers Exchange and Heritage Farm, a non-profit, member-supported organization of gardeners and plant collectors who save and share heirloom seeds. The Seed Savers Exchange is the national leader in preserving and distributing heirloom seeds. Together with Heritage Farm, they maintain one of the largest collections of heirloom varieties in the United States. The general-public can purchase seeds from them. The revenue form each sale helps support their not-for-profit mission. I strongly encourage anyone interested in growing open-pollinated heirloom seeds, to visit their web site online at http://www.seedsavers.com/. At the web site, you can download their PDF catalog or have a catalog mailed to your home. 

Seed Savers Exchange is a wonderful resource for those interested in building a Seed Tradition of their own.   

When planning your garden, seriously consider using the Open-Pollinated varieties instead of the hybrids. Only the Heirloom and Open-Pollinated species will produce seed that is capable of reproducing itself in kind, year after year. In addition, you have the freedom to keep and use the seed as you wish.

Of course, the tradition of seed saving started with the generations past. For our grandparents, Seed Saving was an essential practice. When they found a plant variety that was of good eating quality and consistently productive, they would diligently save and label “more then enough seed” for planting (and sharing). “More then enough seed saved” was a deliberate tactic, in case of disaster, i.e., late or early frost, flood, drought, or those damn rabbits, squirrels and critters, of which many found their way to the diner table, due to their destructive habits in the garden. The quest to ‘Save and Pass On’ seeds, resulted in gardening success year after year. This single practice insured that family, friends and the next generation, would have plenty of high quality planting stock.

Many of my fondest memories are of my grandma, Alma Duncan, (Mam’ma), a woman of Southern Persuasion. She was a Master Gardener and Seed Saver. I can remember that every autumn there would be seeds of every kind spread out on old newspapers, drying by the heat registers or somewhere out of the way. She would write on the papers the variety name, date and where or whom it came from, so she could identify the seed when stored. Mam’ma passed away many years ago, but I can still see her, squatted down working in her beautiful garden. As kids, we would be out playing near the garden, and often, she would give us small tasks so we would feel as though we were helping her. While she worked the ground, she would look up at us, with hand raised, and declare, “Sow plenty and reap plenty!” Often she would say, “don’t worry, if ya think we’re plant’en too much … we’ll just ‘can’ it all up … for its liable to be a long winter … what we have extra and don’t eat … someone who’s in need, will … for it surely won’t go to waste.” Thanks Mam’ma, you taught us allot of valuable lessons, most of which were realized later. If only more people in today’s generation of gardeners would espouse this simple reasoning, we all would profit.

In our own gardens, we must adopt these same practices for Survival and Freedom. It is up to us now to carry on the tradition. Plant Open-Pollinated and Heirloom varieties and remember to Save Your Seeds. You will be delighted and quite surprised with the wonderfully delicious and unique varieties that will bless your table.

Unique Cucumbers (open-pollinated heirlooms).

Here are some featured varieties for my 2011 garden. Having become bored with the normal offerings of cucumbers that most people plant year after year, I thought it was time to re-introduce some wonderful and unique heirloom varieties. The cucumbers listed here, are available at Seed Savers Exchange a non-profit organization, specializing in Open Pollinated Heirloom Seeds. http://www.seedsaver.org/  

True Lemon: This heirloom is from around 1894. Once popular in Australian markets. VERY productive. Fruits are short and plump about the size, shape, and color of a lemon. Mature fruits have a faint lemony (citrus) flavor. Very easy on the digestion for those few, who experience gastric discomfort when eating cucumbers.  

Uses: Fresh Eating, Salads, and Pickling.

Rust and drought resistant.

58-70 days.                     

Poona Kheera: A truly unique cucumber, originally from Poona India. The mature cucumber looks like a russet potato. It has a smooth skin and the fruits ripen from White to Golden-Yellow to Russet Brown. They may be eaten at any stage. Tender, crisp and delicious with good yields and disease resistance.

Uses: Fresh Eating and Salads.

Note: No info about pickling this one, and although it may be good, due to its brown color when mature, it would be rather unattractive in the jar. Perhaps pickling it when young and the color is either white or yellow. Also, no info on how well it holds up to Brining.

55 days.

Crystal Apple: These cucumbers also use to be quite popular in Australia and New Zealand. An heirloom from around 1934 with a shape of an apple when mature, hence, its name. Sweet flavored with a very tender creamy ‘off white’ skin.

Uses: Fresh Eating and Salads.

65 days

Mexican Sour Gherkin: An heirloom recently rediscovered. Vines produce abundant crops of 1-2 inch cucumbers that look like tiny watermelons. Sweet flavor followed by a contrasting sourness, as if they were pickled. This is a good one to grow on a trellis, or in trellised pots on the patio.

Uses: Fresh Eating. This is just, a delicious and fun bite size cucumber to eat.

60-70 days.

The images above are owned by and courtesy of Seed Savers Exchange. www.seedsavers.org

Seed Starts (cont...)

OK.. here I am planting the pepper seeds in a Flat of Start pots. I was amazed at how quick the seeds germinated (4 or 5 days) and how long the little tap roots grew in a day.

I first fill my flat with potting soil, and tamp it so its not too loose. Then with a pencil I poke and twist to make perfect funnel shaped holes. I then pick up the sprout with a toothpick (use whatever works for you). It's best not to pick it up with your fingers because it's so easy to damage the little tender tap root. Place the sprout in the hole root first (heads up) so that the head of the sprout is about 1/4" under the surface. Then just scrape the soil over the sprout to cover and LIGHTLY tamp it firm.

I planted 2 Flats of 36 cells each on Saturday 2/19/11. One Flat was the Large Thai Chile pepper and one Flat of Heirloom Irish Tomatoes.

This morning, Monday 2/21/11, I was pleased to see one of the Irish tomatoes had broke surface. It's ON now!! YAY!!!

Here are some pics.

(Click the pic for larger view, use Back Button to return.)

 

First to Germinate.

As I mentioned earlier... one of the reasons I pre-germinate some seeds, is it allows me to determine seeds of a greater vigor. Well here are a couple pictures that demonstrate this. Over this weekend there will be many more and I will plant these First Germinated in Starter pots and indicate on the pots that they were First to germinate. Then when planting in the garden I will keep track of those plants and keep seed from them in particular. This may seem to some gardeners a bit much, however it is all part of Selective Culturing and improves your particular strain of plant. In these pictures are the Large Thai Pepper seeds. It has only been 5 days since these seeds were placed in the germination bins (very quick for a pepper seed).

(click pic for larger image. use back button to return to page.)



I would also impart that it is very IMPORTANT to keep a Yearly Garden Journal. It should include seed/plant varieties, planting dates, notes over time on how well a strain of plant performed, yield etc, etc, etc... you get the idea. Your Garden Journal will become over time, a valuable tool to your increased success.

Keep it fun... just because it should be..... I have SO much joy sitting with a friend, having a beverage and conversation about the garden, the different plants, the success and failures, inventions & processes. It's a wonderful thing.

A Note about Germination Bins.

I would like to point out, 'Not all seeds need pre-germinating' before planting in stater pots. The seeds I tend to pre-germinate are ones that have a longer gestation period and very hard hauls. Peppers(hot & mild), fruit and berries such as the Pomegranate that I showed in an earlier post, some seeds from the Brassica family and on occasion certain Tomato seeds etc..
Several reasons I like to pre-germinate  my Pepper seeds: it eliminates the need to plant 2 or more seeds per cell in a 'flat of stater cups, a practice that used to insure that all cells have at least one start. Also, I can visually determine seeds of a "greater vigor" as they sprout. I also seem to have a greater 'per seed success'.

Most seeds DO NOT need pre-germinating before planting in starter pots. However, an 'over-night soaking' in water is beneficial to most ALL seeds before planting in starter pots or Direct Sowing in the garden.

How to make a Germination Bin

Here are the instructions for making a germination bin from a 2 Liter plastic bottle.

• Fold a piece of paper in 4ths. cut one of the 4ths out. This is the template for the door on the bottle.
• Place the paper on the side of the bottle and with a marker trace 3 sides of the square.

• CAREFULLY! CAREFULLY!! Cut the 3 sides with a razor knife.

• Now lift the door you have just created and nearly (but not quite) crease it backward. This will allow easier access. Also then, reverse curl the door as to relieve the tendency to curl in.

• This is what it should look like after the above steps.

 

• Now take a 3 inch piece of Duct Tape and stick half to the Center bottom edge of the door. Then Fold about a half inch of the tape unto itself to create a pull handle.

• Now Place several layers of paper towel, napkins or a cloth (your choice) in the bottle to where it only fills the bottom horizontal round half way. Saturate the towels with water, (do NOT puddle). Place seeds on towel and close bottle.

• Close and stick door shut ... place in a warm place and check every couple days to make sure the towels are still wet. If they need water then use a spray bottle and wet it down. I have found that a spray bottle is easiest, but do it how you like.

• IMPORTANT!!!! Always label and date your bin and don't mix seeds, so you always know what you have.

Here are 2 alternate seed germinating bins, I use this style when I have fewer seeds of a variety to germinate. One is a 2 Liter bottle cut and inverted and the other is a plastic pint food container that had something from the deli (food) in it originally. In a container like the pint one, poke some slit holes in the top so it will breath some. This will also allow you to add water (if needed) without removing the lid. Remember NOTHING FANCY,  keep it simple. Re-Purpose, Re-Use, Recycle!!!

Some Pepper Seed Germination

Here I am germinating some pepper seeds .. Giant Thai and Bhut Jolakia the Ghost pepper.

The germination bins are made from 2 liter plastic bottles. Always remember to label and date them. I make it a practice never to mix seed in a single bin.

2011 Seed list (partial list)

Here is the key to the vendors.

GRN = Gurney's http://gurneys.com/

JSS = Johnny's Selected Seeds http://www.johnnyseeds.com/

PGS = Pintree Garden Seeds https://www.superseeds.com/

SSE = Seed Savors Exchange http://www.seedsavers.org/

Category	Item	Description	Vendor/Ord#
Tomatoes	Cold Set	Dtrm. 65 day. Frost resistant. Earliest to sow direct. 3”-4” fruit.	GRN #15125
	Delicious	Indt. 77 days. Very large juicy Full flavor.1 lb. plus fruit. Set  world record with a 7lb.+  fruit.	GRN #15054
	Current Sweet pea	Indt. 75-80 day. The best red current cherry tomato. Excellent flavor.	SSE #1230
	Italian Heirloom	Indt. 70-80 day. Most productive of large 1lb.+ tomatoes. Full flavor.	SSE  #826
	Wisconsin 55	Indt. 80 day. Univ. of Wisc. 1940. Great for canning. Remembered as one of the best home and market All purpose.	SSE #1059
	Large Red Cherry	Indt. 75-80 day. Very old strain. Extremely productive. 1.5”-2” fruit. Preferred for whole canning.	SSE #828
	Opalka Polish Torpedo	Indt. 85 day. Circa. 1900. Phenomenal set of  3”x 6” red paste tomatoes. Holds well on vine.	PGS #414
Brassica
Cabbage (late variety)	Kroutman (F1)	73 day. White, hard dense cabbage resistant to splitting. Specifically grown for making sauerkraut. Great for slaw and other uses too.	PGS #64
	Mammoth Red Rock	98 day. Heirloom 1906. Solid uniform,  8” diameter, 7lb.Very dependable. Red throughout. Small to medium core.  Fine Flavor. Largest of the red cabbage.	PGS #5801
Brussels Sprouts	Long Island Improved	85 day. Semi-dwarf no more then 2ft. good yields of 1-2 inch  sprouts. Can set 50-100 sprouts per plant. Heirloom 1890	PGS #52
	Falstaff	95 day. Open pollinated 2ft. plant with unique purple-red sprouts. Milder then green sprouts. Color intensifies with frost	PGS #53
Cauliflower	Romanesco (F1)	75-80 day. Large unique head. The florets form pointed fractal patterns. Amazing fresh taste. Almost nutty.	PGS #W252
Kohlrabi	Early White Vienna	55 day. Excellent nut-like flavor. Has few leaves.	GRN #14665
	Kossak (F1)	80 day. Giant 8” diameter. Keeps well  storage in cold storage. Sweet ever when large. Peel “skin” before cooking or eating fresh.	JSS #237
Pac Choi	Joy Choi (F1)	50 day. Heavy & vigorous. 12-15 inch tall	JSS #507
Mustard	Green Wave	50 day. Verdant dark green 2ft. plant. Improves in flavor after light frost.	PGS #192
Kale	Dwarf Blue Curled Scotch	55 day. Heirloom 1863. So attractive can be grown for appearance alone. Great flavor. Compact 1ft plant. Sow 4 to1sq ft.	PGS #191
Turnip	Topper	35day. Grown primarily for the leaves. Dark green, crisp and delicious.	PGS #433
	Purple Top- White Globe	55 day. Fine grained and large. Light frost enhances flavor. Good fall crop.	GRN #14722
Rutabagas	Laurentian	100 day. 4-6 inch roots are mild, sweet and firm. Excellent keeper.	GRN #66305
Beets
	Boltardy	46 days. VERY resistant to bolting. Size of a tennis ball. Color strong. Sweet.	PGS #3201
	Crosby Egyptian	45 day. Heirloom 1880. Large flattened grow mainly above ground. Very Sweet.	PGS #33
	Cylindra	58 day. 6-8 inch long. 1.5 – 2 inch diam. Great for pickling or slicing fresh.	PGS #30