Winter Blues.... & reds, greens, orange and purple.

That's right folks, those are the colors that could only mean Winter Gardening. Wow... it's amazing to me how many people believe the Garden season is over when the first killing frosts bite. We see our prize Tomato plants wither... melon vines shrivel ... Pepper plants drop their leafs ... cucumbers vines lay limp on the trellis .. I guess it's no wonder it seems hopeless to most. 


Well, the good news is, it's not over because we still have a "Sub-Season" from early autumn through early to middle winter. It's this span that we call the 'Winter Garden'. The crops we need to consider for the Winter Garden are Carrots and the Brassica family. Brassica and/or Brassicaceae is a genus of plants in the Mustard  Family which includes Cabbage common head and savoy, Chinese Cabbage loose leaf head such as Napa, Pak Choi, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Radishes common and Chinese Daikon style, Turnips, Rutabagas, Kohlrabi, Kale, Collard Greens,  and of course Leaf Mustard - (American, and Chinese) varieties including Seed Mustard.


Now having presented the short list of Brassica for this discussion, I want to point out that some of these varieties are hardy only through the heavy frosting periods, while others are quite viable into the extended freeze periods.


Frost and/or Extended Freeze Tolerant.


Cabbage - common late head, and Chinese Leaf, especially Pak Choi. (Napa style are not as heavy frost tolerant). Cabbage is a great fall crop as most of the cabbage moths are gone by the time it is in it's prime. Until then however, use floating row covers or "low tunnels" to protect them from (cabbage worms) the devastating larva of the white cabbage moth.
Note: While frost is beneficial to flavor, Head Cabbage should NOT be allowed to freeze solid and thaw in the garden, this will only cause the head to Rot, thus wasting an otherwise prized edible. The same is true for Brussels Sprouts and Cauliflower.


Brussels Sprouts - The frost greatly improves the flavor of this wonderful Brassica. If your kids are hesitant with early crop Brussels Sprouts, they are sure to like post frost ones.
Like all Brassica They are very nutritious. Most varieties of Brussels Sprout are slow growing, so plant your starts a minimum of 65 days before first frost of autumn.


Broccoli & Cauliflower -  Broccoli will at times of heavy frost turn deep green with a purple hue and  white Cauliflower will buff brown or in the case of yellow and purple will darken in color, but is not harmed. Neither though, should be left for an extended freeze. 
The 'exception' being a particular type of Broccoli.  The Sprouting Broccoli and Rapini Broccoli which is in the Brassica Rapa (aka Raab) family. These types of broccoli produces 'Florets' instead of a main head and the leafs are also edible. These varieties produce in mid December while some must be overwintered before it produces in early March and April. The flavor is well worth the wait.


Kohlrabi - This is a plant that's a delight to grow. The clean mild flavor is reminiscent of a cross between Cabbage and Turnip. Very easy to grow and holds well in the garden even with the most sever frosts. Kohlrabi is my choice for the BEST coleslaw you will ever eat. The leafs are also edible and the nutrition value is similar to Cabbage. I personally plant ONLY one variety of Kohlrabi of the Gigante cultivar commonly named "Superschmelz". It's the only Kohlrabi that will attain very large sizes and NEVER become woody. Plant in August for an autumn and mid winter crop. 


Radishes - Nearly everyone enjoys radishes, and is a traditional early spring/summer crop. Although, radishes are adversely affected by mid summers heat and is usually abandon and forgotten. In the Grateful Garden the common radish is both a spring and very late autumn crop, while the Chinese varieties are never planted before late summer and early autumn. Both varieties are harvested as needed until the ground freezes which makes it impossible to pull or dig, they are left then till the first thaw for a wonderful extra early treat. The best varieties I have personally found for the winter crop that wont turn woody are German Giant, and the Chinese radishes, Winter Rose and the Daikon. Nearly all of the Daikon varieties can be left in the ground through winter. Of course it is always important to mulch heavily.

Now then, lets get into the Nutritional Powerhouse varieties.

Leaf Mustard - There is no better flavor in "greens" then Mustard after the frost. Some of my favorites are the oriental types such as 'Large Leaf Tong Ho' and the dwarf 'Ho Mi Z'. But let us not forget the all American favorite 'Green Wave'. Mustard greens are second only to Kale in their ability to lower Cholesterol. And they also have two unique Glucosinolate  compounds that act as cancer protection, Sinigrin and Gluconasturtiian.   Nearly all the Mustard's are fast growing and can be sown as late as 45 days before first autumn frost. I have picked Mustard greens after weeks of a hard freeze during a brief thaw and the center leafs were as fresh as can be. 


Kale - This Brassica should be in EVERY garden and a regular part of everyone's diet. It's very easy to grow and is perhaps one of the most nutritious Leaf Brassica that exists. Kale contains very high concentrations of Beta Carotene, Vitamins K, A and C, as well as Lutein and Zeaxanthin and is a good source of Calcium. Kale is also a source of the very potent anti-cancer agents, Sulforaphane and Indole-3-Carbinol. Kale is in the 'Extended Freeze' category because it will grow well into winter and it's not at all uncommon to remove snow to harvest the delectable leafs, especially when mulched. Kale comes in many different varieties  including the very beautiful ornamental Flowering Kale, all of which are edible.
My final thought on this, the greatest of leaf Brassica is, "Eat plenty of Kale, and when your done, eat some more".


OK... let move onto The King of Root Crops. Carrots, Carrots, and more Carrots. It may well be used in more of the worlds cuisine then any other vegetable as is with the onion and garlic. "Extremely Versatile" is the term that best describes this root.  It can be planted Spring,  Summer and Autumn. Carrots Overwinter very well and can be harvested during winter at any opportunity of a thaw. There is nothing tastier then Christmas Carrots, January Carrots, February Carrots... OK, OK you get the drift. Applying organic mulch is recommended for overwintering and it also helps when trying to dig an otherwise hard frozen ground. The health benefits of Carrots is well documented and known to most so I will spare you the reading. Carrots are a "must have" in the Winter Garden. 


Now onto The Queen of Root Crops, the Beet. Yes Beets, their nutritional value alone qualify them for distinction. As in Kale, Beets contain Lutein and Zeaxanthin which are essential to Macula (eye) health. But they are also EXTREMELY high in Betalain Pigments which include the very powerful compounds, Betanin and Vulgaxanthin which provide antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and detoxification support. Strong concentrations of these compounds are found in both red and yellow beets, and to a much lesser degree the colored stems of Swiss Chard and Rhubarb.  
Exuding a wonderful sweet yet earthy flavor, either fresh, steamed, baked, roasted, or pickled, beets are delicious and healthy. Also, the beet greens are an excellent addition to salads or cooked in combination with other greens . They are best sown in late mid summer and harvested after frosts. Although many varieties of beets can become woody if overwintered,  the heirloom variety "Flat of Egypt" overwintered will remain tender, sweet and juicy unto spring. 


Turnips & Rutabagas. These two wonderful roots were a staple in winter gardens of past generations. Although the roots themselves are primarily high only in Vitamin C. For the Rutabaga, 100g contain 25mg of Vitamin C, which is about 42% of the recommended daily dose. Turnips are comparable to that also. They both have a good mineral content. However the real benefit is in the HIGHLY NUTRITIOUS greens. Turnip greens contain up to 4 times the amount of Calcium then other Brassica and outscore cabbage, broccoli, and even the mighty Kale in Glucosinolate content. But here's the catch, it's this high Calcium and Glucosinolate content that makes these greens so bitter. Thus many people shy away from a highly nutritious food source. The answer to this dilemma it to mix the Turnip greens with other greens such as Mustard, Kale and Beet greens. This mix balances the compounds to a wonderful full flavored non-bitter power packed super food. Plant Turnips and Rutabagas in late mid summer. They can be left in the ground with heavy mulch, but most people harvest them before the hard extended freeze as they store quite well.


OK, I think that covers the great possibilities of the Winter Garden ... oh.. don't forget the Green Onions they are just the perfect accompaniment to a winter meal. I regularly uncover my stash of green onions growing under the straw mulch at the slightest hint of a winter thaw.
...... and remember even in the winter you can ..... go play in the dirt, it's fun.

All About Mulches.

3/7/2011

Mulches,

Organic and Synthetic

The aim of this article is to clarify the meaning of the term “Mulches.” In our gardens, Mulch is a covering of the ground around single plants or an entire row of plants. Mulches, are either Organic in composition (plant material), or Synthetic, i.e., made of plastics (a.k.a. film) or consisting of fabric material. Both serve multiple purposes as, a weed inhibitor, a moisture retainer, microbe enhancer/inhibitor, and protect the prepared ground from ‘soil compaction’ due to rain. Certain organic mulches also serve as slow feeding fertilizer.

In a process call ‘over-wintering’, mulch is used to cover the entire plants, usually tubers or rootstock as a protection form the harsh winter conditions. Organic mulches are the common choice used for over-wintering, however, materials such as old floor carpet is often used. When using carpet for this purpose, it needs removed at the first signs of spring, so not to smother the fresh young growth sprouting from the tubers or rootstock.

Organic Mulches

Organic mulch consists of any plant material that is chipped, shredded, ground, or otherwise processed into small mass. Common organic materials used are grass clippings, shrub trimmings, wood chips, Straw, Peat Moss, and newspaper, whole leaf or shredded. Included also, is incomplete compost, i.e., compost that has not reached its final stage and contains a large percentage of ‘rough matter’.

Caution: fresh green organic plant material if piled or thickly layered, produces allot of heat. The high heat can kill young plants and seed starts. This is the case with grass clippings; spread out the clippings to dry for a couple days before applying to young plants or seed starts.

The resounding benefits of using organic mulches are, it breathes allowing airflow to and from the ground, it is water permeable while at the same time retaining moisture, and is self composting which applies nutrients the root systems of the plants.

The disadvantage is that it needs reapplied several times in the growing season due to its gradual decomposition. A good practice is to apply the organic mulch, and then cap it with a layer of Peat Moss or Straw. This allows the initial application of organic material to decompose while the Peat Moss or Straw, which is slow to decompose, continues providing moisture retention and weed control throughout the growing season.

Many gardeners opt to use Straw instead of Peat Moss as a cap over organic mulch. Compost may be added directly over the straw at the end of the growing season, in preparation for next years crops. With Peat Moss, its best to rake into a pile, cover and save for the following season. Peat Moss will lower the soil Ph value (more acidity) when incorporated into the soil over several seasons.

Synthetic Mulches

Synthetic Mulches consist of agricultural plastics (a.k.a. film), and fabrics. Usually sold in rolls 4ft. wide by 20ft., 50ft., 100ft., or longer, and come in various colors. The most commonly used film and fabric color is black. However, the reflective color of the film mulch can greatly affect different species groups by increasing plant yield and/or repel disease-bearing insects. This effect is due to the reflecting of a specific bandwidth of color back up into the plant. In research conducted by the USDA and universities such as Clemons University, University of New Hampshire, amongst others, has concluded some very interesting results concerning the use of certain reflective colors of film mulches. Like all mulches, these reflective color film mulches suppress weeds and retain moisture. Below are listed some of the research results as to color.

Red film mulch: Reflective Red increases yields by 12-20% of Tomatoes and Strawberries.

Green film mulch: Reflective Green, increases earlier and heavier yields by 20-40%, of cucumbers, squash, melons (all types), and pumpkins. Also, works with peppers.

Silver film mulch: Reflective Silver is in a class of it own. Reflective Silver mulch is renowned for its ability to repel harmful disease-bearing insects. It is effective on insects such as Aphids, Thrips, White Flies, and Flea Beatles. Reflective Silver mulch is as effective, as regular pesticide applications for protecting tomatoes form ‘Spotted Wilt Virus’. This makes it especially attractive for use in Organic Gardens. Many large vegetable farms use Reflective Silver Mulch on all their Brassica crops.

Brown film mulch: Brown is more efficient for warming soil then Black mulch and suppresses weeds better then Reflective Green mulch. Brown mulch is a great all purpose film mulch, and Cucumbers, Squash, Melons, and Egg Plant all benefit from its use.

One disadvantage of using film mulches, that it is best to use drip irrigation underneath the film. Drip irrigation systems can be costly and are not always practical for the common gardener. However, with a little ingenuity and the use of recycled or repurposed materials, even the nonprofessional gardener can build a drip irrigation system for little or no cost.

The other type of synthetic mulch is Landscape Fabrics. They offer the benefit of being ‘water permeable’ as well as a great weed suppresser. Landscape Fabric is usually more cost effective then film mulch. A ‘new’ product is now available, it’s a fabric ground cover made from recycled plastic bottles, and it is ‘water permeable’ and a very good weed suppresser. 

Mulches, Organic or Synthetic serve common functions, and are their use in the garden is highly recommended. The conveniences of less watering and weed control are alone worth the effort. It is evident that mulches contribute to increased harvest yields and the overall health and vigor of our gardens.

A Tradition: Heirloom and Open-Pollinated Species

Heirloom and Open-Pollinated Seeds vs. Genetic Hybrids (F1)

And,

The Anecdotal Wisdom of Generations Past.

We live a time where hybrids (F1) and seed patents, have nearly replaced the age-old practice of Saving Seeds from heirloom and open-pollinated plant varieties. These ‘hybrids’ and associated ‘seed patents’, LIMIT (genetically and legally), your ability and right to continue growing the same plant from the seeds of successive harvests year after year. Most hybrids degrade after a few generations. Some hybrids have ‘Kill Switches’ genetically engineered into them, so that their production is greatly reduced or fail completely after a couple generations. As for the subject of Seed Patents, there is cause for litigation, on behalf of the Owner the patent, against anyone, whom, offers for sale, trade or distribution of the seeds covered by the patent without the express written consent of the owner. Furthermore, there is cause for litigation, against anyone, whom, offers for sale, trade, distribution, or planting of the ‘seeds obtained form the harvest of plants, bearing the same genetic seeds’.

The symbol ‘F1’ refers to “First Filial” or first generation offspring. F1 indicates that a seed or plant is a hybrid. The symbol ‘PVP’ refers to “Plant Variety Protected.” A seed or plant with a PVP designation denotes the seed variety has a Patent and – Unauthorized Marketing of Seeds Prohibited. Some modern open-pollinated varieties have a PVP designation. Both symbols, F1 or PVP are, in most cases, printed on the seed pack and always included next to the name of the variety in most reputable seed catalogs.

Although, it is true that cross-breading and genetic manipulation has yielded many new and beneficial plant varieties, albeit very few of which are engineered to be Open-Pollinated. If there is a specific hybrid variety, that you want to grow and, you are not interested in keeping seeds, then go ahead and plant them.

A large percentage of gardeners are using hybrids exclusively, thus making them hopelessly reliant on the companies that create and produce the genetic hybrids. It also makes Seed Saving a futile endeavor. If the numbers of people using Open-Pollinated and Heirloom seeds dwindles, these seed varieties are in danger of being lost.

There are several organizations, whose efforts are making great head way in sustaining and expanding the proliferation of Heirloom Seeds. The leading organization is the Seed Savers Exchange and Heritage Farm, a non-profit, member-supported organization of gardeners and plant collectors who save and share heirloom seeds. The Seed Savers Exchange is the national leader in preserving and distributing heirloom seeds. Together with Heritage Farm, they maintain one of the largest collections of heirloom varieties in the United States. The general-public can purchase seeds from them. The revenue form each sale helps support their not-for-profit mission. I strongly encourage anyone interested in growing open-pollinated heirloom seeds, to visit their web site online at http://www.seedsavers.com/. At the web site, you can download their PDF catalog or have a catalog mailed to your home. 

Seed Savers Exchange is a wonderful resource for those interested in building a Seed Tradition of their own.   

When planning your garden, seriously consider using the Open-Pollinated varieties instead of the hybrids. Only the Heirloom and Open-Pollinated species will produce seed that is capable of reproducing itself in kind, year after year. In addition, you have the freedom to keep and use the seed as you wish.

Of course, the tradition of seed saving started with the generations past. For our grandparents, Seed Saving was an essential practice. When they found a plant variety that was of good eating quality and consistently productive, they would diligently save and label “more then enough seed” for planting (and sharing). “More then enough seed saved” was a deliberate tactic, in case of disaster, i.e., late or early frost, flood, drought, or those damn rabbits, squirrels and critters, of which many found their way to the diner table, due to their destructive habits in the garden. The quest to ‘Save and Pass On’ seeds, resulted in gardening success year after year. This single practice insured that family, friends and the next generation, would have plenty of high quality planting stock.

Many of my fondest memories are of my grandma, Alma Duncan, (Mam’ma), a woman of Southern Persuasion. She was a Master Gardener and Seed Saver. I can remember that every autumn there would be seeds of every kind spread out on old newspapers, drying by the heat registers or somewhere out of the way. She would write on the papers the variety name, date and where or whom it came from, so she could identify the seed when stored. Mam’ma passed away many years ago, but I can still see her, squatted down working in her beautiful garden. As kids, we would be out playing near the garden, and often, she would give us small tasks so we would feel as though we were helping her. While she worked the ground, she would look up at us, with hand raised, and declare, “Sow plenty and reap plenty!” Often she would say, “don’t worry, if ya think we’re plant’en too much … we’ll just ‘can’ it all up … for its liable to be a long winter … what we have extra and don’t eat … someone who’s in need, will … for it surely won’t go to waste.” Thanks Mam’ma, you taught us allot of valuable lessons, most of which were realized later. If only more people in today’s generation of gardeners would espouse this simple reasoning, we all would profit.

In our own gardens, we must adopt these same practices for Survival and Freedom. It is up to us now to carry on the tradition. Plant Open-Pollinated and Heirloom varieties and remember to Save Your Seeds. You will be delighted and quite surprised with the wonderfully delicious and unique varieties that will bless your table.